
In an attempt to avoid turning thirty, last month Chhay headed out of town, dragging a posse of us in her wake. A road trip to keep ahead of time, lay low and pretend that nothing was happening.
Friday 4 pm: Things are looking bright – our rental has been upgraded so we are driving something with a dashboard straight out of star trek that goes like a rocket… but is it fast enough to outrun time??? Pick up the girls and hit the road – seventies (1977 even?) rock setting the tone as we escape past Dumbarton and wind away past Loch Lomond.
Two and half hours later and time may well have stopped, down a windy B road across canals and isolated inlets we find our little cottage – in a town encircling a bay full of boats, and over the hill – sunset over Jura. We settled in for a night of red wine and raconteuring from the friendly neighbours, so far so good – no ones talking birthdays.

On the Saturday we traveled back to the neolithic era – searching for clues of eternal life perhaps? Strange ring marks in stones, ancient hill forts with new industrial insertions, and secluded forest glens protected from persistent rain gave us clues, the answer was to be presented later that evening…
First though, critical in any Chhay adventure – dinner. Back to our secluded town for a seafood feast, fresh from local waters we sampled Isle of Mull oysters, razor clams, scallops, langustine and a creamy mussel dish that had us ordering second and third helpings of bread so we could absorb the last drop of the delicious broth. Luckily for Chhay her the candles on her birthday desert were out of order so she was only celebrating tythir – another narrow escape.

Suitably provisioned we journeyed into Lochgilphead for the performance that was the centrepiece of our journey. The setting was constructed from felled logs, radiating out amongst still standing trees to create a plinth for the action. Uplit trees and a fantastic score evoked the primitive signposts that we had explored earlier in the day. Aspects of the choreography too, with performers scaling trees and walking suspended upside down under the plinth developed powerful imagery. In the end however the performance was at its essence just a play, a prosaic story of marriage gone bad, with time travel as a backdrop. After the build-up it was a little disappointing and far to real – a more abstract performance would have enhanced the mood developed in the installations we explored earlier in the day and the set.
Back at the cottage, with a fire raging, the rain battering down outside and some of the local water of life we celebrated properly. The next morning we explored the local area more thoroughly – tracking down the local peninsula to what felt somewhat like the end of the world. There was no respite for Chhay though she was definitely thirty, so we slowly wandered back to Glasgow to face work on Monday and other traumatic realities like only a year to get a working holiday visa anywhere else or moving up in survey age brackets.
all photos from http://www.nva.org.uk/new-projects/half+life/