atp: the nightmare before christmas

portishead atp

While it might be possible to hold an outdoor festival in the middle of winter in benign Byron Bay, surely festival season has wrapped up months ago here in the UK. Not so fast however however – there is a solution – the ultimate in family holiday fun – Butlins Holiday Camps and the kind folks at All Tomorrow’s Parties & Portishead to the rescue.
It was time for a road trip, destination – deepest darkest Somerset, with a pile of CD’s, hire care and a map of Britain that filled the windscreen it was a seven hour trip from Glasvegas via the M6 & M5.

birmingham

We broke our trip with morning tea in Birmingham in the basement of the funky Future SystemsSelfridges (above), and watched the sun set with a homage at Portishead harbour (below).

portishead
As the band named after the town were curating the festival it seemed that most of the acts were either – bands from Bristol or on Portishead member Geoff Barrow’s Invada Records label. Portishead themselves played both Friday & Saturday nights – we saw their second set – very laid back and polished with many of their new tracks thrown in.
Other headliners Julian Cope and Aphex Twin were more of a mixed bag. Julian Cope was entertaining with his motley crew of bikers and ended his set with a garrulous five minute rant. Aphex also played twice and we saw parts of both sets – they were a little commercial and not eclectic enough for my taste.
Our highlights for what they’re worth were:

Chrome Hoof – the new genre of doom disco spearheaded by this ten piece multi-instrumental silver lame clad outfit is heading your way – either dance or duck!

Autolux – artful poppy noise from LA, with some beautiful drumming courtesy of the female drummers loose style (and perhaps her bionic elbow?) – great website too.
Fuck Buttons – danceable electro laptop beats from – you guessed it Bristol – these guys were so good early on that they were put on again to close the event.
Overall the concept for the festival works brilliantly – the crazy circus tent covered ‘street’ that spans between venues, bars and tacky amusement arcades (below) creates a very civilised festival atmosphere (complete with people picnicking on the ‘grass’ coloured carpet!). Achingly cool hipsters wandering around in such a searingly cheesy setting further enhances the surreal impression. And the cabin accommodation in endless barrack style rows is a very pleasant step up from the usual tented quagmire that accompanies summer festivals.

atp

Our sleepy journey home was broken only by a quick visit to Bristol where we took in Clifton and its famous suspension bridge (below) before hightailing back along the motorway.

clifton bridge

gillespie kidd & coia at the lighthouse

gk&c

There is a great exhibition at Glasgow’s kewl Lighthouse Centre for Architecture, Design + the City – Scotland and the Mackintosh School of Architecture’s favourite modernists Gillespie Kidd & Coia. Some beautiful brutal poetic post war architecture – and yes some crap leaky grey boxes. Their churches are definitely worth looking at for any architects out there (we actually have a great example around the corner from our place) and the abandoned St Peter’s Seminary at Cardross is amazing – we have yet to (illegally) visit but it is high on our to-do list.

It was also good to see where all the Mac trained architects are coming from as the two principals of GK&C ran the school for about twenty years influencing many of the current crop of Glasgow architects.

usa: architecture

federal building SF 1

While we tried to keep our usual architouring to a minimum to avoid totally ruining our friends holiday we did manage to sneak in a few select gems on our trip.

MoMA

In New York firstly I was a little disappointed with the new MoMA – I felt it lacked coherence and any clear rationale. There were some interesting spaces, particularly the main sculpture hall (above) – animated by people circulating through the gallery but the exhibition rooms themselves were fairly bland (ok maybe it should be about the art).

ps1

PS 1 in Queens (above) was a much more interesting space – situated in an old Primary School the only real architectural intervention is the wall at the front creating a serene courtyard, the interiors still feel like the kids only left yesterday (although the standard of their finger painting was pretty high). At times it was eerily like Toul Sleng in Pnom Penh – quiet neglected corridors filled with evocative imagery.

new museum

On our final day in New York Chhay & I snuck off for some more focused architectural voyeurism. We started with the new New Museum by SANAA (above) which was only days away from completion and looking fantastic – an ethereal series of stacked boxes, at once gritty and urban in the Bowery context yet at the same time light and delicate. The cladding of galvanised mesh over fibre cement was so utilitarian yet diaphanous – a true delight. It was a pity we missed the opening as would like to experience the interior of one of their buildings.

storefront
We followed that with a visit to a tired looking yet still successful Storefront for Art & Architecture (above). They had an exhibition of new Danish work including a lot of work by BIG, a firm that should we ever end up in Denmark I would love to work for – I really enjoy their playful yet well researched approach. Staying in the same area we had a rather damp look at some of the new ‘starchitect’ apartment blocks in SoHo – Nouvel’s 40 Mercer (below) & Herzog & DeMeuron’s 40 Bond, all very glam but fairly restrained overall, apart from the lower level cladding of H & DeM’s baby.

40 mercer
With the weather getting steadily worse we abandoned any attempt to see more buildings and legged it to diller + scorfidio’s The Brasserie (below) where we seriously lowered the tone – especially once we realised that cocktails were half price!

brasserie
Once in San Francsico we were in capable hands with our hosts interest in architecture.
As I mentioned previously the Federal Building by Thom Mayne (below + top) was our first stop. Although it is quite brutally inserted into its 3-4 storey context the level of detailing and polish is amazing. There may be a little too much going on for some tastes but it was one of the best high rise office buildings I have encountered. Unfortunately it was a Sunday so we couldn’t get inside (I’m not sure we would have been allowed in even if it was open).

federal building SF 3

The other major contemporary San Franciscan building is of course the new DeYoung Museum by our old friends Herzog & DeMeuron (below). It occupies a slightly surreal setting in the Golden Gate Park next to the Academy of Sciences sporting some new Martian looking green roofed domes – part of a Renzo Piano renovation.

de young 1

The detailing by the swiss is fantastic throughout although the entrance to the museum is very understated. The perforated copper cladding refracts the light in different ways depending on the varying apertures of the perforation, and the screened twisting tower sneaks in between mature trees providing great views of the park. Once inside light is brought in through glazed gardens with minimalist eucalyptus softening the light.

de young
On our final night we managed to tick another Phaidon Atlas building off our list somewhat unintentionally. James took us to an art gallery opening which happened to be in a fantastic apartment in the Yerba Buena Lofts complex by Saitowitz Natoma. Although we only saw it at night it is a magnificent sleek concrete box with projections and recesses forming balconies and creating varied double height spaces in the apartments – it gave me plenty of food for thought for shaking up multi-res design here is Scotland – so much of it poky and unimaginative.

More archi porn on our flickr if u want a peek – NY SF.

oakland

grand theatre

Oakland was our decompression chamber – a relaxed couple of days before we headed into San Fran. Our friend James gave us a tour of the East bay including an awesome breakfast at a Thai temple in Berkeley and some stunning views from the Oakland Hills (below).

san fran skyline

We then spent the afternoon cruising the various districts of San Fran to get our bearings (and cover hilly areas by car rather than by foot!). Highlight (for me at least) was the new Federal Building by Thom Mayne (below)

federal building SF 1

federal building SF 2

although closely followed by the authentic Raider Nation cups that Jame’s girlfriend Jess brought back from the NFL game she was at. Following that we barely moved from the apartment apart from a brief wander out for brunch and a walk around Lake Merritt (below).

lake meritt sunset

a new york minute

just finished 10 whirlwind days in the big apple, summary below more detail and photos once I get back to Glasgow;

our general routine, wake.. breakfast: mmm bagels & cream cheese, museum: whitney, met, moma, moving image, PS1, lunch: uighar, dim sum, greek, venuzuelan, neighbourhood: lower east side, brooklyn, east village, SoHO, chinatown, brooklyn, midtown – no!, queens, west village, brooklyn (again!?!) dinner: italian, japanese, vietnamese, mexican (in a grocery store), korean; band: band of horses, too dead catholics, casiitone for the painfully alone, dr dog (sold out oops) then out somewhere (often brooklyn), sleep, repeat…

some architecture too in there – new new museum by sanaa, store front for art and architecture which is looking tired, cocktails and diller + scorfidio’s brasserie.

now in Oakland for a few days before crossing the bay to San Francisco – a little more relaxed for the next week I think…

dundee or not to be

frank's maggie

Our friend Jude has just finished a run in a Dundee Rep performance of Ibsen’s Peer Gynt. An adaptation by Colin Teevan of this apparently unstagable play has set it in a contemporary backwoods town full of manic characters and the vile Gynt himself.

peer gynt

It was a fantastic production – if a little lengthy (a bit over 3 hours) – strong direction, great performances and a superb pared back set that exposed all of the back of house elements. The performance started in the bar of the theatre (itself an eighties architectural gem) with a raucous wedding reception (below – Jude is singing) before we trooped into the theatre itself to follow Peer’s adventures.

peers party

As it was the last night of the production we headed to the wrap party afterwards, with most of the cast and crew plus hangers ons like ourselves cramming into a tiny one bed apartment till the wee hours. After a lesiurely late breakfast Mike gave us a locals tour of deepest darkest Fife, including a visit to the brooding Zaha Hadid Maggie’s centre in Kircaldy (below) to complement our visit to Frank Gehry’s more playful interpretation in Dundee (top) the previous afternoon.

zaha's maggie

forth & clyde canal: maryhill to spiers wharf

Spiers Warf, originally uploaded by the_greateastern.

For a spot of urban exploration we spent a lazy warm Sunday afternoon track the progress of the Glasgow branch of the Forth & Clyde Canal from where it secretly passes near our flat into Spiers Wharf, perched incongruously high above the city centre.

Abandoned factories, boarded up tenements and posh converted warehouses dot the route along with some great views out over the west end, it is a quite a hidden gem as it is very easy to miss – especially as many roads pass underneath it – you could be forgiven for thinking it was just another railway line.

edinburgh festivals: take 2

trachtenburg

We saddled up for another day of fringe action over the weekend -heading over with our friend Mike and catching acts on their 25th or so rendition – things were either flying or they were well & truly sick of being there.

We had an early start to catch a fantastic Korean physical theatre company’s interpretation of Woyzeck. The only props consited of fantastic simple wooden chairs which the cast used to great effect to create all manner of scenes and atmosphere – charting a working man’s decent into madness. The whole piece had a very architectural feel – not only with the use of furniture to create everything from a bed to a jail but also a cast dressed entirely in black. While it may have been more about the physicality than the meaning of the play it was still very impressive – especially at the end when the cast produced a series of still vingnettes of the entire show with only about 5 seconds changeover between each.
As the weather was kinder than on our last visit we were able to wander the city a bit more and visit a few elements of the visual art festival – including scoring some bloody marys for breakfast at the opening of Francesca Woodman & Richard Serra‘s show at the very posh Ingleby Gallery.
After a leisurely afternoon we packed in a tight program over the course of the evening. We started with an atrocious play, Killer Joe a traler trash americana drama with hammy acting and gratuitous nudity. Having endured our first truly bad performance of the Fringe we ducked in to a tiny basement to hear the Trachtenburg Family Slideshow Players (above) – an eccentric New York family band (…well dad can play & the daughter bashes the drums Meg White style) who collect slide sets from the 50’s through to the 80’s and base their songs on the images they find. With great banter between songs they were highly entertaining although their set was cut a little short.

Feeling rejuventated by the performance we scampered to the other end of Edinburgh for a late showing of Johnson & Boswell – Late but Live, based on the contrasting historical accounts of a journey to Scotland it was quite witty although the two performers weren’t able to sustain the pace towards the end.

By now it was midnight and as we lined up for a dose of low brow stand-up at Late and Live, and jammed into a packed and sweaty arena, with the smell of 25 days of 12 audiences a day lingering powerully I think perhaps we realised we had attempted one show too many. There were a couple of decent comedians but the MC was fairly awful, reinforcing my general antipathy towards standup. It highlighted how many of the poets at Luke Wright’s Poetry Party were far better comedians that much of the stand-ups performing at the Fringe.

collapse!

collapsed tenement

Hearing a strange rumble late on Monday night we dismissed it as anything significant – only to wake and find that the entire end wall of the next tenement along from ours had collapsed! Thankfully we are in the middle of a row and I think our building is a little bit more well maintained maintained. bbc the herald

image from the bbc until I dl my own photos 

castle anybody?

fordell castle

Instead of needing to arrange a raiding party to storm my old family castle I could now just step up and buy it!

From The Courier

“A HISTORIC west Fife castle has gone on the market.

Once home to flamboyant Conservative MP Sir Nicholas Fairbairn, Fordell Castle comes with a price tag of over £3.5 million—and its own title.

The fully restored 16th century castle is the ancestral home of the Hendersons of Fordell, who were given the lands of Fordell by King James IV in 1511.

It comes with the title of the Barony of Fordell.

Also included in the sale is the restored 17th century St Theriot’s Chapel and crypt, a garden cottage, and 210 acres of landscaped gardens and wooded grounds.

John Coleman of selling agent Knight Frank said, “Properties of this type, this well restored, and with access to Edinburgh, Edinburgh airport, and the central motorway network, come on to the market very rarely.

“The castle’s owners have also taken an active and sympathetic interest in restoration of the main property and the chapel, and in the upkeep of the grounds and gardens which are all in a superb state.”

The property has an entrance hall and vaulted kitchen on the lower ground floor. There is a great hall with a beamed ceiling, secret staircase and engraving depicting the death of the last witch in Scotland, and dining room on the principal floor.

The first floor includes the Laird’s study and master bedroom with views to the Forth while the second floor houses a Mary Queen of Scots room and French bedroom.

Viewing is by appointment with the selling agents, Knight Frank or Savills.”

Now all I have to do is talk to my bosses to arrange a small raise to cover the mortgage!