transport dramas

Had a fun day today battling England’s Boxing Day transport. No trains were running at all to get us back from the Isle of Wight so headed to Portsmouth to get a bus. Arrived and waited for the first bus only to learn that they were booked out for the entire aftrenoon. Lacking options, and with our cousin needing to work on Wednesday we ended up catching a taxi – £210 later (thankfully we rounded up a few others needing to make the trip) we made it London only to learn that we couldn’t get into our house for another 3 hours!

All sorted now – preparing for our trip tomorrow.

pitlochry (almost)

on the way to pitlochary

We hit the road early on Saturday morning after an unexpectedly late Friday night spent chatting in our flat (after watching Pan’s Labyrith – a must see at Glasgow’s world’s tallest cineplex). Our destination was a small pub and Scotland’s smallest distillery in Pitlochry in the Grampian Mountains. While we didn’t quite make it as far as we had hoped due to a few unintentional diversions, we did see some breathtaking scenery, manage a pub lunch and visit not just a distlerry but the ‘World of Whiskey’ no less.

Loch Lomond

Our initial destination was Loch Lomond (above) – Scotland’s largest Loch and not far up the road from our place. It was quite a beautiful drive along it’s banks, with a brief stop at Luss for a few very rugged up happy snaps and later in an unassuming roadside pub for a fireside coffee. The walls of the pub were covered in notes from walkers of the West Highland Way – provoking enthusiastic planning of walking trips that have been quite effectively doused by this morning’s weather.

After taking a slight detour back almost to where we began, we ended up on a stunning tourist road through bare hills dotted with isolated white farmhouses in front of a backdrop of snow dusted peaks. This was all very well but tummys were rumbling so we pulled up for a pub lunch beside an open fire (the fire was the highlight rather than the food) in a picturesque little town called Aberfeldy coicedentially the name of a cute Edinburgh band whose music a friend has introduced us to.

World of Whiskey

Time was getting away from us after lunch so instead of Scotlands smallest distillery, which was still a way up the road we opted to the close at hand Dewars World of Whiskey, whose cheesey kitch entertained us for quite a while. We left, confident in the knowledge that Dewar’s is the world best marketed whiskey (if not actually any good) and sped home via the motorway – 1 & 1/2 hours as opposed to the 4 it had taken us to get there!!

pictures courtesy of Chris Haan

cross country

sunny london
It has been a hectic couple of weeks of interviews, and long walks in the crisp Edinburgh weather. After teasing us us with 2 weeks of beautiful clear weather the rain has well and truly arrived the last few days and if the free metro paper is to be believed (generally not) tommorrow’s maximum is a spectacular 5 degrees!

We are heading back down to London this weekend as we are temporarily homeless this weekend & we have a friend in town.

glasgie, ooch aye

glasgow church

Finally made it to Glasgow! Arrived this afternoon, the real world close on our heals. We have a few applications in to firms in Glasgow, and an interview with an excellent firm in Edinburgh. Slight nervousness beginning to creep into the pit of my stomach at least & I think that Chhay is in the same boat.

Bridge over the clyde

We have only tasted a little bit of Glasgow so my impressions are still forming. The historic architecture is quite beautiful, with lots of rich red sandstone and the urban scale feels pleasant to wander about in. The council estates in the outer suburbs looked fairly grim as we came in on the train, but teh West End where we are currently based is very pleasant. Had a bit of a trek to find decent food (but that was mainly due to our budget limitations – those Aussies dollars don’t buy quite as much here as in Hanoi!!)

isle of wight

Isle of Wight

We are relaxing and recharging on the sleepy Isle of Wight at the moment. We have our hands on our trusty laptop and are putting the finishing touches to our portfolios ready to enter the brave new world of paid employment! Excessive pints at the yacht club last night limited our productivity today but we are tearing through the work now.
We have also managed to download the rest of our photos and so I will be updating posts with some images back as far as Saigon. Will also try and get some onto Flickr but as we are too tight to pay for the full version it may take a while.

live from london

Royal Ballet School Link Bridge

We are currently ensconced in Bethnal Green, London. Flight from KL was eneventful though long (allowing me to catch up on more than my required fill of trashy movies) and after a requisite breakdown on the tube we were pretty tired by the time we arrived at our friends place.

We are sorting out a few administrative tasks and generally relaxing and exclaiming about excessive prices for a while, before putting nose to grindstone. We will be heading to my uncle’s house on the Isle of Wight for some focused work on our portfolio later in the week. At this stage it looks like we will head for Scotland mid next week, subject to our productivity!

Thankfully(???) our arrival has signalled the end of any warm weather so the cold up north shouldn’t be too much of a shock. Apparently according to family connections a hockey team even awaits me – no rest for the wicked!

farewell vietnam

hanoi advertisments

We enjoyed the feel of Hanoi quite a lot, if not the sales tactics of the locals. As aficionados of alleyways Hanoi was our paradise, with little streets teeming with life fronted by tall skinny houses, french villas, intriguing passageways leading to courtyards and other mysterious spaces. Shops and restaurants occupied the most minute spaces – including corridor wide spaces that barely left any space to walk through, and street vendors and motos filled any remaining free space.

Hanoi Alley

After two months however, the constant harrassment by touts, shopkeepers and motorbike drivers had taken its toll and we reached our limit of ‘you buy, you buy, you buy from me’ about half a day before we left. We are now chilling out in Kuala Lumpur before our final leg into London tomorrow.

halong bay

Halong Sunset
Halong Bay was quite spectacular, though not quite as beautiful or isolated as ‘Indochine‘ had led us to believe. That may have had to do with the fact we were on a boat with 14 other people (the bay can only be visited with organised tours) and that there were about 50 other ‘same, same, but different’ three storey floating gin palaces most places we visited. It is the sort of place that would be absolutely magical to explore by kayak or small boat but it was not to be.

Halong Bay
At the very least we had a great group of people to hang out with, which made life quite fun. The days were spent kayaking into hidden grottos, exploring caves and swimming in the milky green water (via the 3 storey roof of our boat), but it was after dark that things got a little bit crazy, possibly due the consumption by the rest of our group of cheap vodka peddled from little coracles that swarmed the boat whenever we stopped. It started off with a spot of nightswimming (still from 3 storeys up mind you), branched into pirate raids on neighbouring boats, took a strangely bizarre turn when we were visited by a bunch of naked americans (who joined us jumping off the roof – much to Chhay’s amusement) and finally decended into chaos as people hijacked a group of visiting night kayakers (who later staged a retaliatory raid).

Halong Pincacle

Despite being herded like cattle for much of the trip, it was actually quite enjoyable and we met a few interesting people that we will be able to catch up with later in the UK.

hanoi overland

Hanoi Bridge

Nursing a sore backside, we are currently nestled away in Hanoi’s Old Quater with a million other tourists. Makes quite a change from our previous locale of Sam Neua, in the wilds of Laos where there were a grand total of six foreigners (and that was a busy day apparently).

Hanoi Shoes

Having survived a 10 hour night bus (picture a 70’s style school bus – vinyl upright seats – no head or arm rests and a windy road through the clouds at breakneck speed), and had a couple of hours sleep we explored the caves where the Pathet Lao elites sheltered in style while the rest of the country was bombed to pieces. They were quite interesting little spots tucked away in grottos with airtight safety rooms, living quaters, garages, connecting tunnels (power cut while we were there so we crawled through in the pitch black!) and even a giant performance space for inspiring the comrades. Not to forget the Chinese embassy which had its own cave!

We approached our epic bus ride yesterday with much trepidation, – unsure of what connecting transport lay over the border – if any. In the end the trip was quite easy though long asour bus continued over the border to a major Vietnamese city. After a 6 am start, a morning of breath taking scenery and a windiness factor that blitzed all previous records, by about 2 o’clock I was ready to arrive. Unfortunately we still had 6 hours and a couple of transport changes to go!! We made it in the end and thankfully have put the last of our extensive bus travel behind us.

A couple of days in Hanoi and a boat trip to Halong Bay are all that remain before we are on our way to London!

plain of jars of vegimite

Plain of Jars - Site 1 (2)

We are currently engaged in mental and physical preparation for a night bus trip through the back woods of Laos – lots of meditation to block out Lao pop at full volume and yoga to fit into the most miniscule seats imaginable and try to sleep… and those couple of Beer Laos for internal fortitude won’t go astray either.

Plain of Jars - Site 1

We have spent most of today investigating several sites in the Plain of Jars – lots of enigmatic stone pots scattered around on hillsides. It is all quite interesting and a little spooky. The surrounding countryside is very different to the rest of Laos – in many ways it reminds me of Australia. Lots of bare roling hills and even stands of eucalypts. Of course the Australian landscape generally doesn’t have rice paddies on any flat sections and certainly is missing bomb craters from the American (Vietnam) War dotting every hill and unexploded ordinance littering the place.

Plain of Jars - Site 2

The bus ride into this region was quite interesting, very high on the windiness scale again and with lots of quite poor Hill Tribe villages clinging precariously to the sides of hills along the road. They were full of dirty children and beligerent blokes nursing guns staring at us – and this time unlike our previous Lao bus trips we didn’t have our own gun toting chap in the back seat.

Plain of Jars - Site 3 monk on bridge

Luang Prabang was a bit of a wash-out – very enjoyable but we didn’t get to as much stuff as we had planned because of the weather. Now – back to that yoga…

Plain of Jars - Site 3