glencoe

With CJ in town our new flat was christened for visitors. In addition to the usual Glasgow attractions (an inordinate number of which seemed to be about consuming alcohol) we also took a quick day trip up to one of the more famous regions of Scotland – Glencoe.

Although we missed the Henderson stone, the scenery was fantastic as we took some very back roads including ‘Rest and be Thankful’ (below) on the way up. Dodging showers Chhay got to test the limits of her new gumboots with a small hill climb that involved some quite tricky scrambling.
rest and be thankful
The taste of the area was enough for me to want to go back and do some serious hill walking in the area – although my motivation seemed stronger when at the pub than when surveying our proposed route!

battles

battles

We signed up for a dose of crazy math rock last Wednesday as Battles came to town. Their live set was as good as their latest album, an intense mix of noise, beats and squeaks in a packed intimate arena, even though we couldn’t see their crazy drummer work his magic. Seeing the complexity of their music created live was quite special, although it is obviously takes its toll as they all looked they could do with a nice cup of tea and a sit down (or perhaps a little less chemical enhancement) by the end of the set.

new digs

view from our apartment

We spent last weekend relocating ourselves to a new part of the West End – allowing Claire her own room at last and access to Glasgow’s highest concentration of cafe’s and smelly cheese shops. As a bonus we picked up panoramic views of Glasgow (above) to impress guests and make us late for work as we stare out the window rather than eating our breakfast.

We now have space to burn so visitors are welcome – we have our first guest this week as CJ makes his triumphant arrival from his grand tour of Europe.

berlin

sans souci

Having tasted the purity of Scandinavia we then ventured back to the somewhat more rough & tumble Berlin. With more rain, graffiti and abandoned buildings it was a different but no less interesting cityscape that awaited us.

We spent a couple of days in the South West of the city including a day trip to Potsdam and the Sans Souci palaces and gardens(above), and a quick sqiz at the somewhat surreal Norman Foster library at the Free University (below) before heading east.

library at free university

Most of our time was spent wandering the wonderfully textured inner suburbs of Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain(below) and Kreuzberg ducking into cafés or bars whenever the weather turned ugly. It was nice to have limited time pressures having covered touristy things in our previous visit 6 years ago. As there is a huge surplus of accommodation in Berlin there are fantastic re-uses of vacant buildings dotted about the place with beautiful run-down apartments overlooking leafy squares.

friedrichshain

We tried to taste a bit of the culture of the city – watching Holly Golightly play at a tightly packed smoky bar as well as visiting a slew of Wallpaper mentioned bars and clubs with our architouring friends – the architecture tended to be great while the music was often crappy house. There was even a design festival on while we were in town to allow us to complete our overdose of design.

helsinki

Helsinki Harbour

Located ourselves on the outer edge of Europe for a few days last weekend – a week too early for this year’s Eurovision Song Contest we learnt to our dismay.

The city itself was fantastic – absolutely spotlessly clean with wide streets and crisp building lines giving a sharp edge to every perspective. Surrounded by water we explored quite a few bays and islands but spent most of our time wandering the streets, checking out new architecture (as we were architouring with our friend CJ) and hanging out in bars & cafés meeting the locals. Each little bay at the end of a street provided a new surprise – bits of working harbour jammed up against luxury residential development, or an eight storey high ferry moored right in the centre of town.

People seemed particularly friendly – in a bit of a ‘why the hell are you here’ sense and we made some great contacts for future visits. The bars and cafes (there isn’t much of a distinction they all serve multiple purposes it seems) were great – quite simple food, very clean understated interior design that made them feel comfortable without seeming fussy.
tori - helsinki
Architecturally the best stuff we found was at the end of random tram rides (trams are now a requirement for Chhay & my next city of residence, we have decided after this trip) rather than the flashy new buildings in the centre of town.

Aalto’s Finladia Hall (below) was still the highlight however, sitting delicately in it’s context, even if we weren’t allowed inside.
finlandia hall

the rest of triptych

aberdeen

Aberdeen was lovely for a day. The gig on Friday night was an interesting mix of classical piano & guitar with some old school synth action. We then caught up with Claire’s friend and chatted away until about two in the morning. This was fine apart from the 7 am start that she had the next day – necessitating an early exploration of Aberdeen on our behalf. Thankfully the weather was beautiful and the Granite City was sparkling at its finest (we have heard that it is much less pleasant in the grey of winter). After wandering the city for a couple of hours including a trip to the beach and a visit to the medieval section of Old Aberdeen we meandered our way down the coast via a couple of charming spots.

Stonehaven Harbour

Stonehaven (above) was our first stop – a little fishing village that is the original home of the deep-fried mars bar! We grabbed elevenses at a cute cafe at the end of the pier before wandering down the road to speak to the ghosts at Dunnottar Castle which is sited dramatically on a narrow peninsula.
Dunnottar Castle
Late in the afternoon in the deepest heart of Fife we located the Henderson family’s old castle (well large house is a better term really) at Fordell. Now guarded by security cameras and the home of a reclusive Spanish film star we didn’t get past the gates however plans are afoot for the storming and recapture (I have contacted the local medieval society for advice).

Billy Childish and the Musicians of the British Empire absolutely rocked out the Bongo Lounge in Edinburgh later that night, with old skool moves very much the order of the day. A handlebar moustache and Legionnaires outfit completed the picture.

Struggling somewhat after a very long weekend we had a relaxing afternoon at the Tramway back in Glasgow on Sunday, lazing about at the Ballads of the Books gig. A little poetry, some sunshine and a helping of ‘fey indie pish’ (according to our electro-head friend Andy) spent with just about everyone we know in Glasgow was delightful.

Tramway

Not to be deterred by Monday looming large in the rear vision mirror we squeezed in a late nightclub gig at the styling Optimo watching James Chance & the Contortionists – the white man’s James Brown strut his stuff. Much like James Brown he seemed more dead than alive but despite hair to rival Donald Trump he had the kiddies baying for more.

tryptic part I

ratatat

Just back from the first part of a three city, four day, six gig extravaganza – sampling the delights of the Triptich festival. First on the card tonight were locals Prinzhorn Dance School whose stripped back rock was almost too minimalist – simple described it more aptly. They were followed by the act that we were there for Ratatat. Their powerful noisy electro – described by Triptych as “spleen-rupturing, tropical synth-pop” was much more intense in the flesh than on their records and kept us pinned to the floor with sheer revererations.
CSS albumn cover

The crowd really came alive once CSS (Cansei der ser Sexy) came onto the stage. Brazil’s greatest techno-pop exports were who the jersey dress and footless tight clad kiddies were really there to see. They were actually quite good and even us old folks up the back were tapping our toes along to the Karen O-esque antics up on stage.

Next stop Aberdeen and the somewhat different minimalist composer Terry Riley.

wester ross

Loch Torridon from Liathach

With my new place last weekend limited to a quick visit to our friend Neil’s exhibition opening at the Southside Studios I made up for it by getting the furthest away from Glasgow that I have been so far this weekend. A three day hill walking trip called, and after sneaking out of the office early on Thursday and a 5 1/2 hour bus ride I was in Torridon in Wester Ross – one of the more remote parts of Scotland.

On Friday I woke my legs up with a climb up Liathach – bagging my first Munro – Spidean a’ Choire Leith and was rewarded with spectacular views of wild mountains, lochs and not a tree or sign of habitation in sight. The mountain has two Munros so we headed for the second peak – via a series of rocky outcrops (the ridge on the image below) that required some tricky scrambling skills and a bit of rope work to traverse. Of course there is a bypass track that would have made life much easier, but we had some hard-core walkers in this ‘high-tops’ group so over the ridges we went. The decent was a bone jarring ride straight off the second Munro – Mullach an Rathain leaving my quads like jelly – in fact I am still recovering.

Wester Ross from Liathach

Day 2 dawned more to the Scottish weatherman’s liking with cloud at 300 m and driving rain. We ascended directly up a scree slope which meant for every two steps forward we slid one back making it painfully slow going. As minor near death experience for enlivened proceeding for me, a climber above me dislodged a couple of rucksack sized stones on a ledge above me – with powers of jujitsu I never knew I had I deflected one of them over and away while I brought the Jedi mind trick into play to stop the other inches before it reached me!

I made it to the first of the Munros on Ben Eighe – Ruadh-stac Mor, but had had enough of the cloud, driving rain and freezing conditions, so rather than make a quick dash for the remaining Munro for more views of the inside of a cloud I joined a group that descended into the prehistoric feeling Coire Mhic Fhearchair with a beautiful loch, amazing rock buttresses and small burns cascading over steps in the rock. The two hour walk back out to the bus absolutely soaked was somewhat less joyous as you could imagine.

Wester Ross from Liathach

On our final day of walking the cloud remained but the wind had eased which made for an ethereal climb up Ben Alligin through the mist and focused our attention on more immediate aspects like the crazy purple lichen and small burns that appeared suddenly out of the gloom. Not quite the spectacular views that are apparently on offer on a good day but I figured that 1 out of 3 is pretty good going for Scotland. There was a couple of straightforward scampers to the top of the two Munros – Sgurr Mhor and Tom na Gruagaich before we returned to the bus for the journey home – somewhat footsore after 20 hours of walking in three days.

beaut bute

Rothesay

With our aim of getting to the islands for Easter seemingly scuppered by a lack of accommodation (or should that be a lack of planning) Chhay and I snuck a quick visit to the closest and most accessible island on Saturday: the Isle of Bute. On arrival in Rothesay the main town that encircles a harbour with a series of Victorian ‘beach’ houses (above) we decided to stay for the night and soon discovered a room available at a little B&B on the harbour – a foruitous decision as we belatedly remmebered it was our 7th anniversary (or close enough to in any case)!

On Saturday afternoon we wandered around the town absorbing the Victoriana, with our favourite piece being the 1938 (and therefore very un-Victorian) Bauhaus ‘The Pavilion’ building pictured below.

The Pavillion, RothesayNext we hopped on a random local bus for the beautiful ride down the eastern coast, overlooked by a series of wind farms on the mainland. Alighting halfway down where the bus stopped, with promises of collection and a free ride from the friendly bus driver we walked for a couple of hours through the farms and hedgerows before catching the same bus right down to the very southern tip of the island to Kilchattan Bay (below).

Kilchattan BayWith a few hours to kill before our ride home we explored the start of the West ‘Island’ Way – a much abridged cousin of the West Highland Way, and had a feed sitting outside a delightful seaside pub watching the world go past.On Sunday we visited the main attraction of Bute, Mt Stuart House a massive neo-gothic pile financed by years of plundering and good marriages by Scottish lairds. Being geeky architects most of our attention was spent on the visitors centre by Munkenbeck & Marshall (below), but the house and gardens were impressive if a little over the top.

Mt Stuart Visitor's Centre

the cobbler and his wife

The Cobbler 1

On Good Friday I climbed The Cobbler (above) with some work colleagues. It is a popular series of peaks an hour north of Glasgow. Still no Munros bagged as it was only 884 m high but there were beautiful views over Loch Long (below) and Loch Lomond to be had once we reached the summit.

The Cobbler 2

A couple of us also ‘threaded the needle’ to reach the very highest point, which involves popping throgh a person sized hole in the rock to a ledge with a 20m drop before scaling the last few metres.
Threaded Needle